Whatever fucking knot you use. The Bowline, Figure 8 end and bight, and Butterfly are end line knots that are to hold on to something. I don't see it as any harder to check than a figure 8 once you are used to it. The extra length of line going through the body of the knot keeps it from compressing too much.The cons seem to be lots more people die from screwing up the knot and/or backup knot.If you incorrectly tie a bowline, you will fall.The whole point of a bowline is that it comes undone easily... Why would you want that when it is a single point of failure in your system?The figure 8 can also unroll when the loop is pulled in two different directions.As an engineer i simply don't see why this is even a question.Bowline: pro : easy to undo after fall. I am a double bowline guy.As far as being able to tie a knot blindfolded, etc... A better measure is to understand how knots work, and what constitutes a properly tied knot. The downside to the Yosemite Bowline is that it is more difficult to visually inspect than the Figure Eight. This is why using a figure-8 on a bight for joining rap ropes can and has lead to deaths.
Tuck away finishes increase the 'rollability' of the knot. !Since its beginning, roped climbing has been dependent on the art of knots. No matter what knot. Fuck I hate the internet.It can be definitely be argued that a double bowline is a better solution to the problem of connecting the rope to the harness. So what needs the insurance company, and what needs the real world are two different things. To determine the consistency we used the Standard Deviation divided into the mean break strength. But in anything more complicated, you better be able to do more than follow nursery rhyme sequences.Thanks for contributing an answer to The Great Outdoors Stack Exchange! Some knots are considered stronger than others in that they do not cause as much uneven stress on the core of the rope.
It’s easy to teach and it’s easy to safety check. Heather Weidner, pro climber and instructor for Climbing's Intro to Sport Climbing course, explains the pros and cons of both knots to help you decide which is the one for you.. The figure-8 knot is characteristically hard to untie after falls. But I've climbed with at least three people who used bowlines, and was blown away by how quickly and confidently they tied in and produced a perfect knot. However, dynamic ropes never develop impact loads that threaten overall tensile strength (if the parts are healthy) so it works out. Also, if you don't tie them often, it's harder to remember how to do them. This article will focus specifically on two of the most common tie-in knots.I've never see anyone use a double bowline for climbing...interesting. You can do it by rote, or you can actually understand what is going on.The three knots you listed are all quite suitable for tying in to a sit harness for rock climbing. Although a climber’s relationship with a knot can be as simple and inconsequential as lacing up his or her approach shoes, a climber's life depends on the reliability of his or her tie-in (the knot linking the rope to the climber’s harness) and other knots used in anchor building. I don't see how the technical superiority of the yosemite bowline would make it measurably better "in the field" than the figure eight. Fundamentally, the bowline is a more complicated knot than the figure 8. Yosemite Bowline knot is one of the most popular variant of Bowline knots used by climbers, notably for the harness tying-in point. So really there are two sets of instructions. Here are some of the sources I took information from.Your picture at the top is a double figure eight not a figure eight.As a user in the EEA, your approval is needed on a few things.