Bowline variants which are suitable for climbing solve both problems by some combination of the following methods:Only “secured” bowlines should be used in life-critical applications, and the simple bowline is not one of these. The disadvantage to these knots is that they are often harder to tie and harder to inspect.
You mentioned this in passing towards the end, but I’ve not heard of it being studied in detail – how vulnerable are the different tie-in knots to misidentification/incorrect tying?
Please look over Mark Gommer's comment above on the subject as he a subject expert especially when it comes to knots.Safety incident report involving Scott's Lock Bowline when snagged: The link you have provided to 'Scotts locked Bowline' and its alleged failure mode is an example of deliberately spreading disinformation into the public internet space.Before this runs into another venting verbosity from u-no-hoo,One HELLuva lot of bowline confusion would be spared were the proper FRONT side of the knot shown instead of --as has been done since the dark ages-- the back side :: show the side where the main line crosses itself in making that key/bowline-defining loop!!
If you are trying to compare the #1047 Figure 8 eye knot against 'a' 'Bowline' - you need to compare it to one of the secure Bowlines. Your knot should have proper symmetry and shape. Harry Butlers Yosemite Bowline; and; Scott's locked Bowline; and; Lee's link Bowline. And why? It’s too fiddly and for me I don’t trust myself to get it right. Genuinely scary.I learned the end-bound single bowline, and I’ve discovered that it’s a marvelous knot in many ways, one for connoisseurs. If you’re committed to forming that same familiarity with a secure bowline variant, then there is no good reason you shouldn’t.If the style of climbing you enjoy most doesn’t involve regular falls (e.g. That’s not necessarily true – while the Simple Bowline is indeed unsuitable for tying in, there are certainly variations which are safe and effective.But which variations? I use this for single pitch sport only and has two advantages: stopper knot on the outside; if the knot did loosen fully, you still end up with a regular bowline with a very long tail. It’s not because of any prejudice or phobia, it’s simply what I know best – I am confident that I can tie a Figure 8 correctly, even when I’m exhausted and it’s dark and there are boogiemen around. Gommers observed that the collar of the End Bound Single Bowline (EBSB) was able to be manipulated under 10kN of force, which is to say that you can place a metric ton of force on the knot and still shift the collar by hand. Scott's locked Bowline; and 4. This doesn't make any scientific sense. Variants will be referred to by their respective titles.One advantage of bowlines is that they are Post Eye Tiable. Source: An Analysis of the Structure of Bowlines, Mark Gommers.
My one feeling, besides the precision required to tie it, is that if anything it’s too secure, in that it does seem to suffer more from binding than other bowlines. If it is strong enough to hold a genoa when tacking, it is darn sure strong enough to hold me on a whip.What about Lee’s locked Yosemite bowline? Thanks for the idea Hi mate, just a follow up to your question, and the short answer is no. The price paid is two loops through the harness tie-in points and a bit more time fabricating the knot. Posted by. My conclusion is as follows.In short, the way Yosemite Bowline rethreads the rope-end in its knot is arguably undoing what Bowline is tied. 1 year ago.
Lee’s Locked Yosemite Bowline. Unlike the Figure 8, they can be tied in a single-stage process, meaning that it isn’t necessary to form the knot before feeding through the harness. Anyhow, the primary point of the article is that Bowline, including Yosemite Bowline, is much more insecure than Figure-of-Eight, especially in the course of a long day. When finished it is a bowline on a bight. According to testing by the DAV, it is just as secure and strong as a figure 8 but unties much easier. I'm happy with this in a sport context with frequent tieing and untieing.I note that there are numerous errors in your article.This information is incorrect. You then mislead the reader into thinking that all 'Bowlines' are somehow unsafe (based on the Yosemite Bowline). You tie a bowline with a Yosemite finish and tuck the free end (strand number 2 in right-hand diagram below) back down through the "nipping loop."
By definition, any knot that requires additional tail manoeuvres (e.g. Same goes with screw-gate carabiners - climbers often forget to lock them - so in response, manufacturers offer self-locking twist-lock style gates.Interesting post. Good luck doing that with a rethreaded figure 8. Points: 55 Use whatever you feel comfy with, as long as: 1. This could potentially allude to methods for attaching to the rope, but the study is unclear.